Discover Whitby

The first sight of Whitby is unforgettable. The silhouette of ancient Whitby Abbey perched atop the sea-beaten headland, is nothing short of breathtaking. And, after a coastal drive along the 'moor road' (A171) from Guisborough through the wild and wonderful landscape of the North Yorkshire National Park, the approach into Whitby is a spectacular sight.

Although we live a mere one-and-a-half-hour car ride from the town, it’s easily 50+ years since I was last here, and must admit to being wholly unprepared for the popularity of the place.

All those years ago, circa 1969, I spent three days yomping across the moors with a group of friends, staying at youth hostels and wild camping along the way. BTW: I have a true ghost story to tell from that trip. I’ll reveal more in another post.

Back then, the town seemed a lot quieter. Maybe it’s just an old memory, clouded by passing years, but in contrast, Whitby today was heaving, in a good way. The sun was high, and so was the mood, with visitors enjoying great weather and the delights of this historic coastal haven.





Today, I was with my wife and eldest daughter. On the drive in, we quickly discovered that from early April until early November, there’s a very handy park-and-ride service that alleviates the hassle of finding what I assume is limited and expensive parking in the town centre. There are 450 free spaces at Whitby Park and Ride, which is located off the Guisborough Road, just north of the town. A day ticket is currently £2.60 per person and buses run every 30 minutes, although today, when one departed another seemed to arrive within a few minutes, so we parked up and climbed aboard.

It took very little time to reach the bustling Whitby centre, arriving at the bus station, right next to the ornate Georgian railway station, where rail travellers can arrive and depart by train via Northern Railway to and from main conurbations such as Middlesbrough, York, Leeds, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, Sheffield and beyond.

A limited train service operates from Pickering to Whitby (and back) on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. It’s a volunteer-run heritage line that passes through scenic valleys that look like they’ve been plucked from a storybook and is famed for its role in TV favourites Heartbeat, Downton Abbey, and Dad’s Army as well as the iconic station at Goathland, better known as Hogsmeade Station for Harry Potter fans.

As we stepped from the shuttle we were immediately immersed into the throbbing heart of Whitby life. The place was buzzing!

Catching red harbour crabs on Whitby's dockside


A stone’s throw from the busy harbour, a multitude of seagulls were swooping and weaving overhead, their beady eyes on a large crowd of children and adults along the dockside who were excitedly casting hand-held lines with small (very smelly) bait nets attached into the water and pulling up a vast number of bait-clutching red harbour crabs from the depths. This is a local pastime that has endured for many generations and also an opportunity for a quickly snatched snack if greedy gulls get their way.

The harbour itself was awash with colour and activity as fishing boats, brightly decorated in hues of blue, red, and yellow, bobbed up and down with pirate-themed sightseeing vessels ferrying people back and forth beyond the harbour walls to brave a North Sea tour.

Heading out to sea from Whitby Harbour

We moved along St.Ann’s Staith, passing busy fish n’chip emporiums, bars, hotels, and the infamous Dracula Experience, then carried on to Pier Road and Khyber Pass, a steep ribbon of a road cut into West Cliff. This leads to a clifftop park proudly displaying the Captain Cook Memorial and Whalebone Arch, a poignant reminder of Whitby’s whaling past. The park also provides an excellent view of West Cliff Beach, a stretch of clean golden sand that runs for almost two miles due north.

We then returned to the harbour and across the famous Victorian-engineered Whitby Swing Bridge that connects both banks of the River Esk, and further into Whitby’s old town.

Narrow winding lanes opened up to intimate courtyards where the aroma of handmade fudge from a nearby store mingled with freshly ground coffee and scents of perfumes from the many small independent shops and centuries-old inns. All were enjoying very brisk business today.

Venturing through the labyrinth of narrow cobblestone lanes we soon discovered the legendary 199 steps that lead to St. Mary's Church and Whitby Abbey, not a climb for the faint-hearted. We began our ascent of the ancient stone pathway, a prominent feature in Bram Stoker’s gothic novel Dracula.

Perched on top of the windswept headland, the ruins of Whitby Abbey rise like a Gothic sentinel. This hauntingly beautiful abbey, with its crumbled stone and tales of ancient monks, is the town's enduring connection to the past.





This is where Dracula fans find themselves in the very heart of Bram Stoker's inspiration. Where the brooding presence of the vampire's tale still lingers. The panoramic view from the churchyard, with the town below and the sea stretching to the horizon, is an awe-inspiring sight.

After spending an enthralling hour soaking up the atmosphere wandering through the timeworn headstones in St. Mary’s churchyard it was time to move back downhill.





Getting back to street level it’s impossible to ignore the plethora of amazing smells waiting to greet you. The wondrous whiff of cured kippers from Fortune’s traditional smokehouse on Henrietta Street and the tantalising tang of freshly fried fish and chips drenched in finely fermented vinegar. Mouthwatering aromas come at you from every direction.

Our resolve finally lay in ruins as we ducked into the Monks Haven Café, a delightful little eatery on Church Street, where we sank our fangs into an unforgettable serving of locally sourced fish and chips, complete with buttered bread and freshly brewed tea. I’m salivating just thinking about it right now:)

Leaving Whitby, we carried not just photographs and the day’s story but this visit revived memories of a coastal town that oozes historical charm and tales as deep and dark as the unpredictable sea it borders. I rediscovered this special place on our visit today, and I know, as sure as the tide, that we will return.

UPDATE: I've just published a PDF version of this report. You can get it free using this link